There is no more calming a ride than through the tropical archipelago surrounded by emerald waters. As we float through the limestone cliffs in Hạ Long Bay, I am first struck by how uniformly tall they are. They are not looming over me like the skyscrapers on Wall Street, more like the co-ops on the Upper East Side. Bit of a niche analogy, I know. Alas. There is no moment of jaw-dropping wonder, which is perhaps what I expected. Instead, there is a humble majesty to the prancing islands, relentlessly impressive from the start.